Maybe Clarksdale is where Robert Johnson traded his soul to the devil all those years ago, there's no way to know for sure. But even if didn't happen here, Clarksdale feels like the mythical seat of the blues.

Son House came from Clarksdale, and Muddy Waters -- learn their history at the Delta Blues Museum -- and that of so many more musicians who brought the blues north. But the blues isn't sleeping in the past, it's alive and wailing in Clarksdale -- at Ground Zero and Cat Head Records and a dozen other places.

What's the Delta taste like? Abe's Tamales -- right at the crossroads -- serves BBQ and southern style tamales, or there's Yazoo Pass for bistro style southern cooking. Stay old school in a sharecropper's home at the Shack Up Inn, or try something more stylish with the Delta Bohemian Guest House. Or both, because you're going to want to stop in Clarksdale more than once on your trip through the Delta.